Eveeett p



inl

' dan ,ema

EVERETT I),l RICHARDSON, OF LAWRENCE, ASSIGNOR TO HIMSELF AND'FRANGIS W. OARRUTH, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.-

Letters Patent No. 89,504, dated April 27, 1869.

IMPROVEEMENT IN THE MANUFAC'IU'RE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.`

The Schedule referred to in these Letters Patent and making part of the same.

To all lvwi'wfm, it may conce/m Be it known that I, Evnnnr'r P. RICHARDSON, of Lawrence, in the county of Essex, and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and useful Improvement in the Manufacture-of Boots and Shoes; and I do hereby declare the following to be' a full and exact description ofthe same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which are made part of this specification.

My'invention relates to the preparation ofthe soles of boots and shoes to be sewed to their uppers either .son of the wear extending through the channel, and

causing the separation of the outer edge from the central part of the sole long before the latter is worn out.

To obviate this difficulty, I prefer toform, instead -of a channel extending continuously around, near the edge ofthe sole, a series of notches or indentations, one for each stitch. ,Y

These indentations serve as eiectually as the customary channel, to determine and facilitate the entranceof the awl orA needle at the proper distance from the edge of the sole; but, as they have no continuity, lthey do not weaken the sole, or endanger the giving Way of its edge in the manner referred to.

My invention further consists in an improved mode or process to facilitate the proper sewing 4of the soles of boots and shoes to their uppers.

In some classes of shoe manufacture, the sole has been prepared for sewingby imparting to it a permanent bend, extending around the same near its edge, so that a flap is caused to stand out, through which ap stitches can be taken, instead of through the body p of the sole.

efface the unsightly crease which the bending-opera tion produces on the bottom'of the sole.

" In carrying out this part of my invention, I take a .C-le, without preliminary bending, and, either with or without the notching or indentation referred to under the first part of my invention, or the customary channelling, and by means of suitable appliances, I so bend or gripe the sole near its edge, at the time and place ofy taking each stitch, that the piercing-instrument may be made to pass in and out with great ease and accuracy; and, if the character of the work renders the bending desirable, the straightening of the sole,

as soon as it is released .by the griping-devices, may

be maderto impart a curvature, within the leather, to stitchestaken with a straight awl or needle.

The griping of the sole, even without bending, is of great value, especiallywith soft or thin soles, which are liable to kink or pucker at the timeand place of sewing, but, by my gripingdevces, are pressed and held in proper shape, so that the awl or needle may pass through with ease and accuracy.

The drawings illustrate the application of my invention to the sewing of the class known as turned shoes, which are wrong side out when the sewing together of the soles and uppers is performed, and are afterwards turned for finishing.

Figure 1 represents a transverse section of a channelled sole, and the upper in position on the last,

showing one edge of the sole bent at the place 0f.

sewing. The dotted line indicates the course of the awl or needle.

Figure 2 represents a transverse section of a similar shoe after it lias'been served, and turned, and applied tothe finishing-last.

Figure 3 represents a transverse section of adjacen portions of a notched or indented sole, and the upper in position for sewing.

Figure 4 isa plan or top view of a part of a finished shoe, with a portion of the u pper removed, to show the notches or indentations in the sole.

S represents the sole;

U, the upper; and

L, the last'.

a, a a are notches or indentations, which may be produced in the'sole either by heavy pressure, with an instrument of suitable form, or by cutting out portions of the leather.

These notches or indentations determine accurately the proper points at which the awl or needle is to enter, facilitate its entrance without glancing, and afford an etiicient hold for the thread, but do not injure the sole by partially severing or separating its edge, as inthe case of a channel, such as is represented at a in fig. l.

In sewing channelled soles, a guide or channel-opener may be employed, as shown in iig. l. l

B represents a bearing, formed as a hook, to pass around the edge of the sole, and

O, a reciprocating bar, acting, in connection with the hook B, to gripe the edge of the sole each time that it is piereed, and, if desired, to bend it into the form shown in figs. l and 3, so thata straight or slightlyeurved awl or needle may be made to pass into and out of the same surface of the sole;

The retract-ion of the bar'C after every stitch permits the sole to resume its former straight position.

D represents a presser-foot, employed to hold the edge ofthe upper against the thrust of the awl or needle.

When Amy invention is used in connection with machine-sewing, the feed may be performed by suitable appliances engaging in the indentationsa a, or by any method employed in sewing-machines.

EVERETT l. RICHARDSON.

Witnesses:

JOHN GRINNELL, OoTAvUs KNIGHT. 

